After three rounds of harsh weather conditions – frost, hail, torrential rainstorms – the early spring beds in our area are, to put it bluntly, toast. My lively pink hyacinths, which had greeted guests with their happy color and welcoming, spicy fragrance, now look like this:
With their unexpected demise, I guess it’s time to start planning and preparing summer beds!
Living on the top of an old stone quarry, I have less than ideal planting conditions. Add to that a dog who roams, a well-fed rabbit family (named Rodrigo and Jade by the grandkids who think they are my pets) and a plethora of groundhogs, the odds of having gorgeous seasonal color garden beds are slim. I have to give credit though, to JoAnn Prieto, the Horticulturist/Seasonal Color Manager at Embassy Landscape Group, for sharing her secrets for planning and planting beautiful seasonal containers and beds. By following her advice, I know that not only my front entry but also the rest of my yard will go from pitiful to beautiful.
Working on both commercial and residential properties, every year JoAnn is faced with a new variety of planting challenges. Depending on the year, her creations can be for public or private viewing and can be anything from huge rooftop containers in the blazing sun to tiny, tucked away shaded corners in a client’s backyard. Regardless of the scope, place or type of project however, she believes that there are crucial questions to answer and important tasks to be completed before planting ever begins. The most important thing to think about however, is assessing your location and using the assessment to plan and plant your bed. Below is a listing of 10 crucial questions she considers before she begins a new job. Following the questions are summaries of her explanations. Images accompanying this blog are provided by JoAnn herself and Sandy Defoe, a photographer at Embassy. All of the photographs of containers and beds are of JoAnn and Ashton Gusman's designs (except, of course the one of my dead hyacinths. I claim that one.)
KNOWING YOUR LOCATION
- What is the light situation? How much sun does the bed get now? Full sun (8+ hours/day), partial sun (4- 6 hours/say) or shade (minimal or no direct sun/day). What will the sunlight be like in mid-summer? In fall? Will a bed in full sun today be shaded by trees in full leaf later?
- What kind of sunlight does the bed receive? Is the light direct or dappled?
- If the bed is in partial sun, when will the sun be the strongest?
Correctly gauging the amount and type of sunlight a bed receives is critical for the success of a container or a bed. Full sun areas, especially here in the Midwest, need tough plants that can withstand days in the hot sun.
Partial sun areas can have their challenges too. Knowing which hours of the day the bed is in the sun is important. If the sunlight hours are in the morning, then plants with more delicate foliage like impatiens or nicotiana can thrive. Those same plants in midafternoon sun, however, will suffer, using their energy stores to survive rather than to produce blooms.
- Are you planting for a bed that will be viewed from a distance, like a foundation planting (or a commercial street planting), or will the bed be one experienced close up?
In order to stand out, beds viewed from a distance should be bold and dramatic, with blooms that have vibrant color. Red tulips are often early spring choices, while vinca and lantana are great for summer beds.
Beds that are viewed close up however, have an advantage. These beds can feature the more unusual or complex blooms that demand a second look. Specialty alliums and yellow or red hot pokers, for example, are show stoppers.
- What type of soil are you working with? Is the soil a heavy clay or a loose, sandy soil?
- What kind of amendments will it need?
Having the soil tested before planting gives an accurate picture of what nutrients your soil actually needs to produce the garden that you dream of. State Extension Services usually provide this service for a small fee, or you can purchase diy kits at most big box stores and garden centers. Once you have soil information, then you can amend the bed as needed.
- Is the site protected from bursts of wind, or is it out in the open?
It’s easy to forget that wind can be an important factor in designing flowering beds. Delicate plants on fragile stems may not be able to withstand frequent gusts of warm summer breezes. Petals can be torn by the wind, leaving the bed in an unattractive, mangled disarray. Extremely windy areas may be better served by varieties with flexible stems that sway in the wind. Coreopsis and daisies are two good choices for windy spots.
- Is access to water easily available? Will the bed be hand watered or is it automatically irrigated?
- Does the soil hold water, or does water quickly drain away?
All plants, even those listed as “drought tolerant," at some point need water to survive. In fact, some species of flowering plants need to live in bog-like conditions. Knowing both the availability and accessibility of water then, is important information to have from the outset of the project. Having to haul water or drag heavy hoses everyday can easily turn garden maintenance into a dreaded chore.
- Is the site likely to have high pressure from rabbits, deer or other animal visitors?
As the victim of animal garden predators, I can attest to the frustration of losing beloved plants to the insatiable appetites of garden critters. While there are products on the market to deter them, most need repeated applications to be effective. An easier solution is to be proactive from the beginning, selecting varieties that are less appealing to your four-footed visitors.
